El Bujeo

The site brings together around forty routes in total, ranging from short easy lines to overhanging aid pitches, by way of a few boulders. The main sector, facing inland, is very demanding: all the routes have been re-equipped with glue-in anchors. The seaward sector is less interesting technically and remains a beginner zone. The rock is a medium-quality sandstone, riddled with small mushroom-shaped protrusions and interspersed with slabs: very grippy, technical climbing, the opposite of the athletic dyno.

It is the perfect crag when the levante explodes on the coast of Tarifa and the limestone spots of the sierra become unrideable. Attendance stays very local, the atmosphere that of a little garden known to the climbers of the Campo de Gibraltar more than to tourists. Like San Bartolo and Betis, El Bujeo lies within the Parque Natural del Estrecho, same rules, same possible nesting restrictions depending on the annual orders.